Traditional nagura (alumina/SiC) sheds softer grit that can clog pores, cross-contaminate the surface, reduce cutting speed, and cause inconsistent scratch patterns.

At high grits, metal and carbide swarf is finer and more likely to lodge in the bond’s pores; some of it oxidizes and turns black. This is normal and not diamond loss. You can remove it by gently conditioning with our #100–#400 truing plate.

Scratches after 6K are normal: 6K isn’t a mirror grade, and diamond abrasives still leave fine lines. Up to 6K, the goal is to fully erase the previous grit and unify the scratch pattern—this is groundwork for final polishing.

Angle defines edge character—not right or wrong, just trade-offs:
10–12°/side: Japanese gyuto, slicers, razors—ultimate bite, lower durability
15–18°/side: Western chef knives, petty—balanced edge
20°+/side: outdoor, cleaver, work knives—max durability

You can use the Angle Reference Wedge included, or a guided sharpener (our Cheefarcuut Guided Knife Sharpener) if you want precision and repeatability.

Pro tip: stick to one consistent angle family across your knives—it simplifies burr management and speeds up the entire progression.

For more specific angle recommendation, check our digital manual.

Keep the stone angle (optionally +1–2° micro-bevel). Use light, even pressure ≈ 250 g / 0.55 lb.

Orientation & force: tip backward, spine forward, and pull with the spine leading so the edge trails. No back-and-forth. Do 5–10 light pulls per side.

Feel cue: glide as if skimming off a thin layer of sand from the strop.

Both belong to the same brand with the same mission—bringing professional sharpness to everyone.